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#filabillyhumidor

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Questions, 4 of 3 (Told ya!)

I want to use a piezo knock sensor so I can tap on the glass and turn the lights on without breaking the door seal. Can I mount the piezo anywhere in the cabinet, or does it need to be on the door.

There are 14 millions piezo sensor tutorials on the web, but every one of them starts with "What's an Arduino?" and and ends with the piezo plugged into a breadboard. Nobody explains the mechanical considerations.

🧵 55/N

Replied in thread

Questions, 3 of 3 (for now).

I want to drive an LCD panel (not pictured). The one I bought uses SPI. If I want to run animations, it needs ~40 MHz. Is it possible to run SPI at that speed through a one meter wire, or should I put another MCU on the back of the display and run USB to it?

I'm leaning toward another MCU.

Thanks.

🧵 54/N

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Questions, 2 of 3.

What's the best way to attach a wire to a LED strip? When I just solder them on, they eventually break off. Could I make a small PCB and bond the strip to that? Should I print some kind of clamp/strain relief thing to hold the wire end in place? If I do the PCB, I'll throw some capacitance on.

I have about 2 cm between the end of the strip and the end of the channel.

Thanks.

🧵 53/N

Replied in thread

Questions, 1 of 3.

I'm planning to wire the six LED channels in parallel, driven from six GPIOs.

I am looking for a good way to connect the wires to the controller board in back. For other recent projects I used JST SL, but I don't want to use them again. They're too big, too hard to unlatch, and not wire-to-board. Maybe Molex CLIK-Mate? Other suggestions? I don't want to buy a crimping tool...

Each LED strip will use 2.25 amps max.

Thanks.

🧵 52/N

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@3dprinting Then I started thinking about how to route the wires and what connectors and where to locate the MCU and which door sensors to use and it's just too much to figure out today.

I've got a long list of features I want to put into this cabinet. Lighting, fan, temperature/humidity, door sensors, knock sensor, an LCD display, and the dehumidifier. Maybe I should figure out a way to add features incrementally. But they're all interdependent.

🧵 50/N

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@3dprinting The plan is to have this aluminum channel running up the center of the FilaBilly Humidor. It will provide a surface for the door to seal against (I hope) and also hold an LED strip to light up the interior.

I got this far in modeling and printing the clip that holds the LEDs in. (cont'd)

🧵 49/N

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@3dprinting The BILLY has polyurethane on one face of all five sides, and all the seams are caulked. The electrical box is not caulked, nor are the holes for the fasteners. I did caulk over the 176 holes for adjusting the shelves.

None of this will matter unless I get a really good seal around the doors. That's TBD.

🧵 47/N

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@3dprinting I'd been procrastinating assembling the FilaBilly Humidor because I feared the caulking would be messy and look bad. And I was right! Looks bad! Still, it's done now. It won't look too bad in the dark. Except — I'm going to light this cabinet up like a stadium.

My temporary superpower is rubberized fingertips. I should play my bass today.

🧵 45/N

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@3dprinting I've always wanted to make a drill bit stop to make holes with controlled depth. Since I need to drill 37 15mm deep holes for the FilaBilly Humidor's rack ends, and the screws are supposed to arrive today, today is the day to actually make one.

The bit is centered between four flexible arms (PETG). The drill depth is set by how far I insert the bit into the chuck. This is another @rahix inspired design-for-printing thing.

🧵 41/N

Today I went to the #HomeAssistant Community Day in Brooklyn. It was great! I found out people are pushing Home Assistant to do things I'd never considered using it for. And I got to spend some quality time talking with fellow geeks about geeky things. (I seem to live in a geek desert.)

I gave a micro talk on the #FilaBillyHumidor, and it was well received.

Thanks @madelena for hosting!

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@3dprinting I've been struggling to visualize the FilaBilly Humidor's power inlet. I think this design will work. It looks like it can be printed, wired and assembled.

It needs to be thin to fit the side of the BILLY behind the spools. This is just 39.6mm wide, and it clears the spools by 5mm. It will be right up against the BILLY's back wall.

One outlet is for the dehumidifier, and the other is for the lights and sensors.

🧵 40/N

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@3dprinting This is the FilaBilly Humidor's center shelf. I am putting a 120mm fan in to circulate air between the top and bottom halves. I printed this surround in two pieces. I'm pleased with how it came out.

Yes, it's crooked in the photos. I straightened it as soon as I saw the photos, but I didn't re-photograph it.

🧵 37/N