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#3dprinter

4 posts3 participants0 posts today

I have a promissory note for the chemicals I need to produce conductive and ionic UV resins from an anonymous benefactor, provided I help them get hold of a #RepRapMicron #3dprinter. They work in bio research, so I can see why they want one.

I can't just use conductive paint instead of resin because the particles of silver in it are much larger than my minimum feature size!

Kiwi Clack kiwiclack.com/ have kindly donated 170 MX key switches so I can hand out Quirkey keyboards to the needy for basically the cost of a #RaspberryPi and 8hrs on a #3Dprinter!

PS Fab Foundation have donated 15 Pi's and my lab is providing 15 shells.

Kiwi ClackKiwi Clack - NZ Mechanical Keyboards StoreKiwi Clack is a New Zealand (NZ) owned and operated company specializing in mechanical keyboards. We sell keyboard switches, stabilizers, lube and more!

Makers of the fediverse. What are the options on the market for a #3DPrinter as a replacement (or complement) to a Bambu P1S? It needs to do multi material support (i.e. like the Bambu AMS), as well as the more advanced filaments like TPU. Quality needs to be as good as a Bambu printer. Bonus if the build plate is big enough for a 300mm x 300mm print.

What printers should we be looking at with these requirements?

Results of my longest-running experiment yet, of interest to the #3Dprinter community:

PLA Prints, in periodic contact with water, take 19-20 years to decompose to the point where they crumble to powder in the hand. I base this on 3D printed hydroponic run hole covers which I printed out on an original RepRap Mendel. Some more recent (12 years) also decomposed, but they were printed at a higher temperature for speed.

For the 3D printing nerds: I'm having a problem with my Ender 3 Pro, and I'm not entirely sure what to tweak to get better performance out of it.

Basically, the part starts out as one contiguous circle, then once it's past the base, there's an outer ring, and then some small protrusions. I usually have trouble printing multiple parts at once, because my build plate is far from flat (planning to swap firmware and get mesh levelling setup), but while this is sort of the same thing (the nozzle has to jump across multiple non-contiguous portions of the print during each layer), it's all happening within a total diameter of <40mm!?

Basically I can complete the entire base, then when it gets into the "sticky outy" bits, after anywhere from a couple layers, to maybe half a cm or so, my extruder starts clicking, and I run over to find it just floating above the print, obviously clogged I guess.

The weird thing is that I managed to do a couple test prints of this just fine yesterday. Now I just keep failing!

Any ideas!?

For reference, I have an Ender 3 Pro with the off brand red aluminum dual gear extruder. I'm using Elegoo PLA+ (which is what I've always used) at 210 degrees (what I've always set it at).

First photo is a couple successful test prints from yesterday (earlier iterations of this model; the one with the radiused walls had the ring as well but that snapped off after the fact... accidentally made it too thin). Second photo is my last 3 failed attempts, which appear to be failing earlier each time lol

I don't suppose anyone in or near #rdguk wants a #reprap #3dPrinter ?

I built mine years ago, and I've barely used it since. It worked well, last time I used it, but it needs a bit of fettling if you want to print over the whole bed area (there's a bearing mounting that needs to be printed and fitted).